Garage Outlet Install

In installing an outlet for a chest freezer in my garage (finished walls), I drilled from my crawl space into the garage wall to run the wire - and hit daylight, not a studded wall.  In order to install the outlet where I wanted it,  I would have to cutout through sheetrock(sr) and about 1.5" of wood to install an outlet box.  Using an 'old-work' outlet box, the 'wings' are not long enough to get beyond the sheetrock plus wood.

Crude 'profile sketch'

crawl space......|_wood_|_sr_|......garage

Any suggestions on installing the outlet box through the sheetrock and wood wall.  Can't hammer anything in as there is not enough room to swing a hammer.  However, due to the wood, there is plenty of area to add screws from the backside only. - not to the side as in a new construction box.

Or - I can cover up the hole I drilled and move the receptacle to where I only I have to install the box into sheetrock., and my problem is solved except that the outlet will be about 24 inches off the ground, instead of the standard height, which is not that big of a deal because it is in the garage after all and a chest freezer will probably be covering it up.

Thanks in advance.

If I am understanding your post correctly, this is what I'd recommend:  Don't use a plastic, or non-metallic, "old work" box.

Use a metal switch box with plaster ears and with internal romex clamps.  The metal switch box doesn't need as large a hole as a plastic switch box, so, hopefully, you haven't cut the box hole.  It takes a bit of patience to cut a rectangular switch box hole, but it goes smoothly if the cutting blade is sharp.

A metal switch box has four holes in the corners of the plaster ears.  The holes are perfect for #4 flathead wood screws, and in your situation should be about 1" long.  The #4 flatheads nestle into the plaster ear holes snugly and won't interfere with cover plates.  The screws are long enough to get securely into the wood behind the drywall surface, and small enough that you can send them out at a slight angle into the wood. Don't forget, that the new receptacle that you install must be "tamper resistant" per the 2011 National Electrical Code.

Hope this helps,

If you don't mind the looks of a surface mounted box, I would just do that.  Mount a metal 4" square box over the hole you drilled when you found "daylight." From your description there is plenty of wood to attach the box to. Install the Romex through a knock-out in the back of the box, securing it with a Romex connector, of course.  Use a 4" square raised cover to install your duplex receptacle.  It sounds like the freezer may hide the surface mounted receptacle anyhow.