Is there a safe & Legal way to turn a Wired Vanity Light into a plug in light?

Hello Everyone,

I am extremely new to DIY electrical projects!!

Like the title says:  Can I turn a wired vanity light into a plug in light fixture?

In a safe and legal way!!

Example:  Can I turn this fixture into a plug in one?

Any advice and Step by Step extremely appreciated.

Thanks,

Patricia

Hi Patricia,

Welcome to the Forum.

To do this yourself requires that you follow the rules of the National Electrical Code, which adds some requirements above the requirements the manufacturers of cord and plug connected lights must comply with.

The most important requirement is that the exposed conductive parts of the fixture (your picture shows a silver metal base) must be connected to an equipment grounding conductor.  The light fixture probably already has a bare copper ground wire attached to the exposed metal.  This ground wire would be wire nutted to the green insulated conductor of a three wire cord with a grounding type plug (a three prong plug).  The grounding type plug must be, in turn, plugged into a receptacle that has a working equipment ground.  If you are unsure of the receptacle at the location you want to mount this light near, use a simple electrical receptacle polarity checker.  The polarity checker can be found for $10-15 and is a basic home defense electrical tool.

Grounding of the exposed conductive metal is a basic life safety concern especially an a bathroom and around sinks.

Next, you will probably find a label on the fixture or a statement in the installation instructions that says the wires the light fixture is attached to must have a temperature rating equal to, or exceeding, 90 degrees Centigrade.  The conductors in the cord will have to be rated for at least 90 degrees Centigrade (or higher if marked higher than 90 degrees C).

Where the cord enters the fixture, a gripping strain relief connector that is listed for "cords" must be used to keep the cord from being damaged or the wire nut connections from being tugged by tugs on the cord.

The cord, itself, when going in open air between the fixture and the receptacle it gets power from, may not be strapped or stapled to the wall or ceiling.  One can use velcro, that is attached to the wall, or something like an open hook.  The cord has to be removable without tools.

Last, a new back will probably have to be fabricated for the fixture.  Most of the fixtures like the one you show, have open backs, but, some are closed backs.  The end result of the fixture that you add a cord to, is that all the wires and connections should be housed inside the metal body of the fixture, front and back.

Hope this helps.  Have a good project.

ElectricAL:

Hi Patricia,

Welcome to the Forum.

To do this yourself requires that you follow the rules of the National Electrical Code, which adds some requirements above the requirements the manufacturers of cord and plug connected lights must comply with.

The most important requirement is that the exposed conductive parts of the fixture (your picture shows a silver metal base) must be connected to an equipment grounding conductor.  The light fixture probably already has a bare copper ground wire attached to the exposed metal.  This ground wire would be wire nutted to the green insulated conductor of a three wire cord with a grounding type plug (a three prong plug).  The grounding type plug must be, in turn, plugged into a receptacle that has a working equipment ground.  If you are unsure of the receptacle at the location you want to mount this light near, use a simple electrical receptacle polarity checker.  The polarity checker can be found for $10-15 and is a basic home defense electrical tool.

Grounding of the exposed conductive metal is a basic life safety concern especially an a bathroom and around sinks.

Next, you will probably find a label on the fixture or a statement in the installation instructions that says the wires the light fixture is attached to must have a temperature rating equal to, or exceeding, 90 degrees Centigrade.  The conductors in the cord will have to be rated for at least 90 degrees Centigrade (or higher if marked higher than 90 degrees C).

Where the cord enters the fixture, a gripping strain relief connector that is listed for "cords" must be used to keep the cord from being damaged or the wire nut connections from being tugged by tugs on the cord.

The cord, itself, when going in open air between the fixture and the receptacle it gets power from, may not be strapped or stapled to the wall or ceiling.  One can use velcro, that is attached to the wall, or something like an open hook.  The cord has to be removable without tools.

Last, a new back will probably have to be fabricated for the fixture.  Most of the fixtures like the one you show, have open backs, but, some are closed backs.  The end result of the fixture that you add a cord to, is that all the wires and connections should be housed inside the metal body of the fixture, front and back.

Hope this helps.  Have a good project.

Thanks ElectricAL!! For the concise, descriptive and easy to understand response.